Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer
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When Anatoli Boukreev died on the slopes of Annapurna on Christmas day, 1997, the world lost one of the greatest adventurers of our time.
In Above the Clouds, both the man and his incredible climbs on Mt. McKinley, K2, Makalu, Manaslu, and Everest-including his diary entries on the infamous 1996 disaster, written shortly after his return-are immortalized. There also are minute technical details about the skill of mountain climbing, as well as personal reflections on what life means to someone who risks it every day. Fully illustrated with gorgeous color photos, Above the Clouds is a unique and breathtaking look at the world from its most remote peaks.
avalanche guiding forever. Valeri Khrichtchatyi on Khan-Tengri clients have died. Nineteen eighty- in August of this year. In the autumn of 1990, Grigori Luniakov and Zinur Halitov died attempting a futurroute up Manaslu. istic Anyone who difficult it it is makes on sion. Each to live through their deaths. Confronted with the impact their loved ones, makes loss you are forced to reexamine your pas- harder to return, once again to take up the it paths that lead to the
surroundings in the time the delay would be forgotten in the diversion of and conversations. At eleven in the morning on the proved. Carrying a load of supplies, we thirteenth, the weather im- new trail decided to forge a 71 72 to the beginning of the fixed rope. The glacier was covered in deep new snow that lay like icing on a treacherous cake. No trace of the many crevasses marked the smooth surface; our progress had to be slow and deliberate. ing with my worked first,
Kirgizstan during the (Collection of Anatoli Boukreev, photo by Vladimir Yakushkin) Members of the 1989 Soviet Union International Expedition sorting supplies and equipment near Taplejung, Nepal, before beginning the Camp. (Collection ofAnatoli Boukreev) trek to Kanchenjunga Base k >*^-<- ~- uS*-'??, mm £*?3?£r< ^^ In the the autumn of 1989, site of the first a route up Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus Union. Anatoli s victory in that competition resulted States.
giant silhouettes of Lhotse and Ever- below. While lestial fantastic. little III broken, turned attention had been which neglect now complicated our properly, sit- knew the shelter was vital to our safe descent. Having spent so much energy and motivation getting to the summit, we would be in a critical state of fatigue com- uation. Soberly assessing our predicament, ing down. would be It friend resting a mountain earns on is rejoice in it. too easy for us to join our
with They assisted suggested to Scott that everyone should descend to I boche, a village in the forest weeklong I helped him descend to Base I climbing plan called for a long After that, and me and allowed me I On May 1 everything was not needed in camp. Scott ex- my to follow De- inclination to rest in boche. Scott and Neal Beidleman did not understand. peak in the Everest to climb during I They attempted basin. our made rest I to climb period struck Diamox